Gucci opened their show on Wednesday evening with a screening of David Lynch’s artistic vision, the Gucci by Gucci fragrance media promo. In typical Gucci style the ad proved provocative and glamorous, much like the collection. Deconstructive black and white graphics embodied the strong fifties motif, reflecting a darker side of the Gucci woman. Post show, Frida Giannini explained her motives for commissioning a David Lynch production “I wanted him for his visionary ideas, his genius,” she said. “At the same time, I didn’t want a doll with no head or blood — one of his strange visions.” Lynch, acclaimed for his ‘surreal, nightmarish and dreamlike’ cult productions such as the Elephant Man and the more main stream successes of Twin Peaks and Mulholand Drive brought his own twist of fantasy to the campaign.
The runway collection reflected current trends of the season including Roman inspired toga dresses and retro revivals. A popular combination of Jet black, polar white and hues of sunshine yellow monopolised the runway. The classic Gucci tappered black trouser paired with open toed booties frequented the runway, undoubtedly soon-to-be dubbed the “Frieda Trouser”. Her post show bow in a pair of the tappered classics sealed the deal as the must have garb of the season. Frieda’s ensemble was a combination of all the casual Gucci basics of the season, including the classic cinch belt and a princess pink cropped jacket.
Bubble skirts, the fleeting flannel print and biker jackets added a touch of the contemporary, edgy Gucci chic we adore. An oversized “Frieda cinch” made it’s way onto the runway, paired and matched along side almost every garment, adding to the list of seasonal Gucci staples. The recurrence of her staple garments accentuated her much adored basics, until her array of robed evening gowns closed the show.
The Emporio collection opened with a Marilyn Monroe inspired fragrance ad for Emporio Armani Diamonds. Featuring pop starlet, Beyonce, the ad displayed a contemporary rendition of “Diamond’s Are Girl’s Best Friend” from the 1953 classic, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. Beyonce performed in a silver encrusted fringed Armani swing dress with matching peep-toe silver stilettos.
“Fashion, style and a legend” encompassed Beyonce’s description of Armani as a designer and Fashion mogul. The pair had previously worked together on the 2006 One Night Only charity after their initial meeting at the Guggenheim in 2000.
The recurrent theme of diamonds ran throughout the collection, sparkling crystal-blue and silver rhinestones encrusted hooded tops. Oversized sporty totes and gypsy inspired necklaces featured precious stones, an aide-mémoire reflective of the Giorgio Armani gypsy chic collection on Monday, where bejewelled head scarves, harem pants and an array of beaded tanks were inspired by a lustrous headscarf.
Armani’s second line remained a more urban reflection of trends. The collection saw the knotted three quarter trouser from Monday’s show and added a cuff, resulting in the “upturned tulip”. Modern, edgy and chic described an assortment of jackets, blousons, prints, cinches, dresses, everything expected from a collection, but with little evidence of strong themes or trends.
“Beyond Trends” was a constant consideration as the words featured on the backdrop, and indeed a collection of multiple washed silks, short shorts and crystal shimmered tops reflected an eclectic assortment of glitzy urban wear undoubtedly sought after by every fashionista.
Just Cavalli which debuted on Monday saw an assortment of printed dresses and tribal beads, motocross jackets, animal prints and mini dresses. His collection embodied his strong fusion of biker chic and primal desires. Roberto Cavalli, the original Cavalli label, saw a complete transformation. The back drop featuring the Versailles acted as a suitable display for a collection comprising of “innocent” boho chic. The Victorian inspired pieces were scarce despite the back drop, but bouffant hair, scarves and white plain woven dresses tied in with the conventional motif. Cavalli kept his love of “exotic” hides by embracing soft leathers in neutral tones and adding thick fringes to minimal trenches.
Bohemian translucent inspired prints, floral printing on blazers and intricate layers of chiffon defined Cavalli’s collection. His evening range remained somewhat minimalist, as silk gowns and glitzy golden sequence remained subdued. Cavalli known for his fashion forward flamboyant designs has turned a corner, “I used to design for a woman who wanted to flaunt,” he said. “Now, it’s time for a new woman who is more pure, simple and innocent.” Long flowing satin-silk gowns featured painted orchids, lilies and tulips, an evening line bereft of flashy accessories summed up the “new Cavalli”.